In the latest TikTok skincare trend, dubbed the morning shed, people are sharing videos of themselves removing all the skincare products they used overnight, from sheet masks and restorative creams to mouth tape, anti-wrinkle patches, and acne patches.

TikTok. Morning Shed.

Many users, who have racked up millions of views, claim the routine is the key to dewy, glowing skin.

 

Hannah Kopelman, DO, a dermatologist at Kopelman Aesthetic Surgery, tells MDLinx that overnight skin care products can be extremely helpful—when people tailor the products to their specific skin type and needs. “Overnight skincare can be highly beneficial when approached with an understanding of your skin’s unique needs,” she says. But this comes with a warning: It’s possible to overdo it with your nighttime routine and damage your skin barrier.

We ask two dermatologists whether the morning shed might ultimately help or hurt people’s skin. Here’s what they say. 

 

Products have different effects on different skin types

 

Overnight skincare products can treat an array of skin conditions. According to Dr. Kopelman, the skin undergoes significant repair and regeneration at night.

Chang J, Garva R, Pickard A, et al. Circadian control of the secretory pathway maintains collagen homeostasis. Nature Cell Biology. 2020;22(1)74–86.

“Using products like anti-wrinkle patches, acne patches, moisturizing creams, and sheet masks can enhance these natural processes,” she says.

 

People with dry skin, for example, might benefit from using an overnight moisturizing cream or wearing a face mask that locks in moisture and strengthens the skin barrier.

Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, et al. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review.

Those dealing with acne might benefit from using a targeted patch on single blemishes.

Jaturapisanukul K, Udompataikul M, Kanokrungsee S, et al. Efficacy and safety of a novel water-soluble herbal patch for acne vulgaris treatment: A randomized, assessor-blinds controlled, intra-individual split-face comparative study. Dermatologic Therapy. 2021;34(3).

Retinoid-based products can promote collagen production and potentially help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Zasada M and Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. 2019;36(4):392–397.

 

Products can also interact with one another and potentially damage the skin barrier, which can cause dryness, redness, peeling, and itching. “Using too many active ingredients on your skin at once, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, azelaic acid, and retinols, could cause skin irritation,” Brendan Camp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology, tells MDLinx.

 

Here’s how to nail down a balanced overnight skin care routine

 

Because your skin type and status will inform the type of products you will benefit from, it’s crucial to consult a dermatologist. They can tailor a nighttime routine that’s both safe and effective for your skin, says Dr. Kopelman. 

In general, she recommends starting with the basics: “A gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturizer, and, if needed, a targeted treatment like a retinoid or acne medication.” People with sensitive skin should opt for gentle, non-irritating products. Dr. Kopelman recommends looking for items that claim to be “noncomedogenic” and “hypoallergenic.” 

Dr. Camp suggests sticking with evidence-backed ingredients that have been heavily researched, such as retinol and retinoids, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, alpha-hydroxy acids like lactic and glycolic acids, and antioxidants like vitamin C—although, he notes, you don’t want to use all of these at once. When using a product for the first time, try testing it out on a small patch of skin first to ensure that you don’t have an adverse reaction to it. 

The key to skincare—and the morning shed—is consistency. “No product will provide a durable result with one use,” says Dr. Camp. When in doubt, avoid overloading your skin with products. Using too many sheets, masks, and creams can damage your skin barrier, irritate your skin, and, for what it’s worth, drain your time and finances. 

For many people, particularly those with skin sensitivities, less may be more. “Keeping a streamlined, simple routine that you will be able to commit to on a nightly basis will most likely be more effective in the long run than the intermittent use of a complex group of products,” says Dr. Camp.